Chardonnay & Pinot Noir – There’s no Place like Burgundy!

   By: Michael Bray

Chardonnay & Pinot Noir – There’s no Place like Burgundy!

You may know from my previous columns that Burgundy, France is home to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Often referred to as, “white Burgundy” (100% chardonnay) and “red Burgundy” (100% pinot noir) – there is no other place (or terroir) on earth, that begins to tell a similar story. Here’s why…

Burgundy stretches over approximately 224 miles in the central eastern part of France. The region is very picturesque, with green valleys, forests, lakes, rivers, and mountains making up a majority of its terrain.

Burgundy has a continental climate which means it enjoys warm summers and endures cold winters.  Its terroir is what sets it apart from every other wine producing region in the world.  While there are around 400 different types of soil in Burgundy, the region is mostly comprised of old limestone and marlstone which impart their unique, rich aromas and flavors onto the grapes. Vineyards cover approximately 70,000 acres across the region.

Burgundy has one of the best documented histories of any wine producing region.  As early as 910 CE, the Benedictines were known to own large holdings of vineyards in the area.  200 years later, the Cistercians dedicated their Monasteries to making wine and understanding the craft and science behind its production.  In 1336, these monks developed a type of walled vineyard, known as a clos.  This development contributed to the notion of “single vineyard wines.”

In the 14th century, the region was ruled by the Phillip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who proclaimed the Gamay grape unfit for human consumption.  He also decried the use of manure as fertilizer, as he believed it to increase yields and decrease quality.  When the duchy of Burgundy was absorbed into the French monarchy toward the end of the 15th century, the influence of the Duke was diminished, and the power of the church over land holdings lessened as parcels of land were auctioned off as state property.

Eventually, négociants (wine merchants) arrived on the scene and purchased the majority of Burgundy’s wine crop.  They were very successful in their winemaking pursuits and they left the growers with little crop to grow and sell.  The négociants established power in buying and selling wine.  Growers were limited to selling to local cafes and shops, while the négociants were blending grapes from different vineyards and selling to larger buyers.

In 1861, a 3-tier rating system was developed for Burgundian wine.  When the French adopted their appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) system in 1936, most of the top tier wines from the 1861 classification were awarded elite Grand Cru Status. Burgundian wine thrived until the onset of the Second World War, when many vineyards were neglected and wine crops were consequently devastated.  Many winemakers turned to chemical pesticides and fertilizers to help mitigate the damage, but this ultimately had the reverse effect of weakening their vines.  Burgundy’s vines and wines were revitalized in the 1980s and 1990s when organic and biodynamic agriculture became standard practice.

Varietals:

Burgundy’s Main Grape varietals are Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, Aligoté.

Burgundy’s red wine production is dominated by Pinot Noir.  The exception is the subregion of Beaujolais, which is famous for its expressions of the Gamay grape (Gamay is planted in a few other spots in Burgundy as well, but Beaujolais features its most extensive and noteworthy holdings).  Pinot Noir is a very fickle grape that excels in Burgundy’s cool climate, but only in those vintages that cater to its climatic needs.  It requires adequate heat over an extended period to allow the grapes to ripen fully, and conditions must be dry and windy enough to ward off rot.

Burgundy’s white grape production is devoted almost entirely to Chardonnay, with very small plantings of Aligoté and Sauvignon Blanc in certain areas.  Burgundy’s world-renowned expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are what make it one of the most exceptional wine-producing regions in the world.

Classification:

Burgundy’s wines are currently graded on a 4-tier system:

- Grand Cru ($$$$) is the highest grade.  Only 1.4% of total production is in this category. That’s the reason for the high price tag – they’re extremely rare!

- Premier (1er) Cru ($$$) is the second highest.  10.1% of total production is in this category.

- Village Appellation ($$) is next, encompassing 36.8% of total production.

- Last is Regional Appellation ($), accounting for the remaining 51.7% of total production.

Now what? Time for Action!

Ready for a glass of wine? Here’s your mission: upon visiting your local wine shop or dining out at your favorite restaurant, ask them to guide you to Burgundy. If you’re new to Burgundy, ask for an entry level recommendation of a “red burg” (pinot noir) or a “white burg” (chardonnay). Price point will range from $12-20 per bottle or approximately $8-12 by the glass. If you’re feeling more adventurous and not one to climb your way to the top, but rather ‘drop in’ at the peak – ask for a recommendation on a ‘1er cru’ status. Lastly, please share your experience and or questions with me at, michael@passionvines.com. Cheers!