Written by David Setley, featured in Shore Local September 18th 2025

Drink Up!

Fall in South Jersey means cooler weather, evenings on the porch, pumpkin spice, and the return of red wine. Many take a break from red wine in the heat of summer and switch to whites or rosés. Though you may not be ready for the full-bodied wines that take the lead in winter, you may be craving the depth and complexity of red wines on cool autumn evenings. The wines of the northern regions of Italy are among the best medium-bodied reds. In this article, I’ll discuss the Piedmont (or Piemonte, in Italian) and Valpolicella regions and the historic and outstanding wines produced there.

The Piemonte region is in the foothills of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy, near the borders of Switzerland and France. Though much of Italy has a warm Mediterranean climate, this region is notably cooler, with a Continental climate similar to Burgundy, France. Vineyards in the region are commonly planted on the slopes of hills at elevations of 500-1200 feet. Almost 90% of winemaking occurs in the southernmost portion of the region, near the towns of Alba, Asti, and Alessandria. Winemaking in Piemonte is centuries old and dates to the Roman Empire.

The dominant grape of the Piedmont is Nebbiolo, which derives its name from a notable weather feature of the region. Nebbiolo is derived from “nebbia,” meaning fog. Although the Alps to the north shield the region from rain, the fog, created by cool air to the north and much warmer air to the south, is common. Fog may not be enjoyable to us, but it is excellent for growing Nebbiolo! The Piedmont appellation most known for Nebbiolo is Langhe, located in the far southern section of the region. Langhe’s unique location makes for very cold and snowy winters, but very warm summers, allowing for a long growing season. Nebbiolo wines feature fruit notes of cherry, plum, and strawberry with earthy tones of leather, licorice, and herbs. Excellent examples are the G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo and the De Forville Langhe Nebbiolo.

Barbaresco is another appellation that produces a wine that, in typical old-world fashion, bears the name of the subregion. This wine is also made from Nebbiolo grapes, with differences due to terroir. The soil in Barbaresco has higher nutritional content, which produces a grape/wine with more fruit-forward aromatics and taste and less pronounced tannins, making it a perfect lighter-bodied red for this transition to cooler weather. The lighter tannins and fruitier palate make Barbaresco wines very friendly with diverse foods, including lamb, duck, chicken, pork, salmon, tuna, and vegetables. Two great options are the Cantine Povero Batù Barbaresco and the Famiglia Rivetti Barbaresco. These wines have an elegant profile with aromas of cherries and sweet spices and a delightful balance of fruit and savory earthiness. The tannins are light on the palate but provide a strong foundation that gives the wine structure and support. If you haven’t tried a Barbaresco wine, this fall is the time.

Piedmont is sometimes called the land of the three “B”s: Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera. Unlike the first two, Barbera is a grape, not an appellation, that grows in numerous locations, most of which are in the Piedmont region. The wines made from Barbera are lighter-bodied with less tannin and a slightly higher acidity. If you like Pinot Noir, you will very likely enjoy Barbera. Two famous Piemonte locations where this wine is produced are around the towns of Alba and Asti. I would recommend the Mauro Molino-Barbera D’Alba or the Roberto Ferraris-Barbera d’Asti. Both are reasonably priced and pair well with tomato-based pasta meals, smoked meats, pizza, risotto, and anything with mushrooms.

In the northeastern section of Italy is the wine region called Veneto. The most famous wine from this region is Prosecco, but if you are seeking a great wine for fall, Valpolicella is the appellation for you. If you, like I, grew up in an Italian family in the 1960s, you may be thinking Bolla Valpolicella! This large, northern Italian wine producer brought Valpolicella Bolla to America after WWII. These wines are medium-bodied, dry red wines that are typically made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, Veronese, and/or Corvinone grapes grown in the appellation. They are medium-tannin wines with the aroma and flavors of tart cherry, chocolate, and baking spices, with notes of pepper, almonds, and leather. These wonderful red wines work well with barbecued foods, seafood dishes, pizza, and pasta. There are many reasonably priced and delicious examples, including Giuliano Rosati-Valpolicella, Allegrini-Valpolicella 2022, or my favorite: Brigaldara-Valpolicella Classico. If you are interested in something a bit more full-bodied, try the Santi Solane Valpolicella Ripasso. The Ripasso method adds the skins and juice of Amarone wine to the classic Valpolicella wine, giving it a richer and more complex profile. Valpolicella Ripasso is frequently referred to as Baby Amarone.

I hope you enjoyed this brief autumn tour of northern Italy and the wonderful wines produced there. Pour a glass of one of these wines and enjoy locals summer at the Jersey Shore. As always, contact me with any questions or stop in the store. Until next time, arrivederci and happy wining!