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| Producer | Elio Grasso |
| Country | Italy |
| Region | Piedmont |
| Varietal | Nebbiolo |
| Vintage | 2015 |
| Sku | 13963 |
| Size | 750ml |
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The first vintage for Grasso’s Riserva ‘Rüncot’ was 1995. Since then, quality has edged ever higher, perhaps on account of the run of recent vintages witnessed in Piemonte, but without doubt, it is in part due to Gianluca Grasso’s winemaking skill. This Monforte d’Alba-based, family-run estate has holdings in two Barolo Cru, namely Ginestra and Gavarini. It is in the latter that the plot named ‘Rüncot’ lies. The Rüncot Riserva is only made in the best vintages, and it comes from 30-year-old vines on a steep, south facing slope which stretches to 350 metres in altitude. These vines grow on a clay soil over a base of limestone.
Rüncot is often a wine that surprises with age and has a track record of delivering in warmer vintages such as 2015, 2007 and 2000. I recall reading Antonio Galloni’s review of the 2000 Rüncot as it was released, in which he suggested that ‘the too-sweet fruit and excessive use of new oak threaten to throw it off balance’ scoring it a mere 89 points. Tasting five years later, he revised his score to 96 points when he tasted from a magnum, describing it as ‘a beautifully layered, perfumed Barolo graced with exquisite elegance and inner perfume. An explosive finish rounds things out in style. This is a stunning, breathtaking wine of the highest level.’ This is a huge shift in a scoring system that seldom extends beyond a range of ten or eleven points, but it illustrates how tricky it can be to read Rüncot at an early stage – interestingly, Galloni comments from experience in his 2015 note that Rüncot only starts to drink well at around ten years of age, a point with which I fully concur, though I think he should adjust his drink dates to reflect the comment! The 2008, which I tasted recently, has entered a real sweet spot, and is showing superbly, certainly ahead of my early expectations.
The 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is absolutely gorgeous. That much is clear. The only thing the 2015 needs is time. Time in the glass brings out the wine's inner perfume and bright, red-toned fruit. Blood orange, spice, mint, licorice and dried flowers linger on the persistent, sculpted finish. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle any time soon, as the Rüncot only starts to drink well at around age ten, at a minimum. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. Drink 2025-2040.
All sizes are 750mL unless otherwise noted.
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